106/Saxo Rear Trailing Arm Bearing
Well time come for your MOT and the car failed on the rear beam bearing (some garages confuse them for bushes which they are not on 106s, Saxos or AXs) You have two options. Source another beam or rebuild the one you have got. The bearings that the rear arms pivot on are actually pretty easy to change and considerably cheaper than finding a new beam. You can get the bearing from www.106parts.com so I presume Peugeot sell them too. However If your bearings have been bad for some time they will wear into the bearing surface on the beam itself. This will be the end of your beam and you will have to get another. The good news is you can swap everything from your GTi beam onto a lower spec beam and also sell all the good bits you take off the replacement beam you get. Anyway back to the guide, I will describe here how to change the bearings on your Peugeot or Citroen as the Haynes does not. Remember this is just simple guide and I would not attempt this unless you have good mechanical skills as I will not be held responsible for any damage to property or yourself from attempting this!
First get your car on some flat level ground, loosen the rear wheel bolts a turn then jack the rear of the car up and get it on axle stands. Remove the spare wheel, and jack from the main rear cross member with a block of wood between the car and the jack lifting face if you cant get enough height from the jack. Once the car is safe and secure on axle stands (always block the front wheels and leave the car in gear to be safe) remove the rear wheels. Now is a good time to give everything a good squirt with plus gas penetrating oil. You will need to spray the antiroll bar end caps and bolts. and torsion bar securing bolts with offset washers, torsion bar splines and the brake flexi lines, which can be seen in the first two piks. Whilst that is soaking in remove your shocks, this is a simple one they are just held on by two bolts each. Now with the arms hanging on their own measure from the top of the disc to the bottom of your arch vertically on both sides (to confirm) and then write it down somewhere safe as you will need this later.
I remove the anti roll bar end caps first. To do this undo the M8 hex head bolts securing them (one on each arm) then unscrew the plastic caps which go into the round section of the end cap. I happened to have a bolt which I could screw into the larger thread (which is part of the cap not the ARB itself which is M10) Im pretty sure its an M12 fine thread. If you screw a bolt into that you can jack it off the ARB. Alternatively you can use a slide hammer to pull the cap off. With one cap off the other can be knocked out then put the bar and cap in a safe place!
With the ARB out of the way its time to tackle the often stubborn bastard torsion bars! First you need to get the bolts out of all four ends of them, these are torx drive bits and can be a bit of a pain. The other ones are not too hard as you can get an impact driver on them and gently tap it to get them out. I cannot stress how much you do NOT want to break these off. The two inner ones are harder and I use a 10mm hex drive torx bit which I can fit then use a 10mm spanner on to undo. Once you have the bolts out of the way you need to remove the offset washers. To do this, scrape all of the crud from around the washer so you can find out which way you will have to slide it to release it. I find the simplest way to get them out is use a screwdriver and knock them into position so they can be levered out easily. They can be a bit dam fiddly but be patient and get lots of plus gas in there. I now like to spray the torsion bar ends up so that while they are soaking I can remove the flexi brake lines. remove them from the swing arm end so you can clamp them off to reduce fluid loss. Also it is now a good time to remove your ABS (if fitted) plugs which will be mounted above the rear beam on the rear cross member. One for each side. Do this before removing the torsion bars so the arms cant drop and damage the cable. Another thing to do whilst letting the bars soak is to remove the handbrake cable, no idea how it fits on drum models so check your manual but on cars with rear discs its a doddle, simply hold the actuator arm with some mole grips push it round and unhook the cable end. The cable then just pops out of the arm.
With the washers removed there is nothing holding the torsion bars in but the years of road crud. There are two ways to get them out. You can either screw a slide hammer into the exposed end (M8 thread) and try and pull them out OR you can using a soft faced drift bash the shit out of the inner sides of them to get them to pop out. They will slide out like in the photo below. This is often the hardest part of the whole job but once they are out they will go back in and come out again very easily if you grease them up properly. Withdraw them and put them in your safe place along with the ARB.
With everything disconnected from the arms they should be hanging down onto the floor. Now comes the moment of truth, wiggle the arm and pull gently and it should come right off in your hands. Put it aside for a second and inspect the bearing surface on the end of the beam. (pictures below show my friends car, it was fooked which we already knew so we took it off the car) If your bearing surfaces look like either of the photos below you will need a new beam or a good second hand one (good news is all the beams are the same so you can get a lesser spec and swap you bits onto it) You are looking for a clean smooth surface with no pitting or grooves which would not only mean your new bearings wont run on it properly but they will fail very quickly and there will still be play.
This one was completely buggered! This was due to the bolt coming securing the ARB end cap coming out and the cap going walkies. It is only the end cap that stops all the water and shite getting into the bearing.
Now we turn our attention to the arms themselves. I use a round steel drift to knock the bearings out whilst the arm is firmly held in a vice. as you can see from the photo below that bearing is well shot.
Once you have knocked the bearings out remembering to go around the outer face with the drift so as they wont jam on the piss, give the bore a good clean out with a flap wheel. Before you put your new bearings in clean out all the dust and shit so that it cannot contaminate them and shorten their life span.
Now to install the new bearings from your kit. Make sure you take note of which way out the old ones came so you can put the new ones back in correctly. Start them off with a gently taps diagonally across them with a hard faced hammer (small ball pein is perfect) never use a soft mallet which could leave hide or copper shavings in the bearing and ruin it. Once the bearing has started to go I take a big flat bit of 15mm aluminium plate and use this over the bearing to tap it in making sure to keep it square and not hit too hard as these bearings are very delicate.
There is a plastic bush which goes in between the two needle roller bearings to space them out. Do NOT forget this bit. Finally pop the new seals in. The new seals will fit the same way as the only ones you removed, with the smaller one fitting to the inside of the bore facing the outside of the arm.
Once you have all your bearings and seals nicely fitted then you can either refit to the car if its good or to your new beam. First though give the bearing surface a really good clean up and then apply a liberal coating of a good quality grease. Your freshly rebuilt arms now can be slid onto the beam and from now on its plain sailing.
I dont feel the need to go into as much detail of the re-assembly as its pretty simple, its just the reverse of the disassembly.